Chicago BeAt…Bolingbrook’s new gourmet cinema, Village Roadshow Gold Class Cinemas at the Promenade

Because the only way “2012” is remotely tolerable is watching it from a comfy, oversized recliner while noshing on Red Velvet cake.

I sought out Roland Emmerich’s latest disaster movie, starring typically good but never-blander Evanston native John Cusack, not for the movie, but to relish in Bolingbrook’s new grandiose movie theater, Village Roadshow Gold Class Cinemas at The Promenade, for the pic’s nearly three-hour running time. It was the theater, not the movie, that was the main attraction.

But you’ve got to understand, this is no ordinary movie theater. The arms race for luxury movie going experiences has accelerated as DVDs and other home entertainment options compete for consumers (plus the premium ticket pricing for special amenities helps the theaters’ bottom line). Cushy stadium seating and surround sound are practically required for any new theater, but to really stand out, multiplexes are springing for digital projectors for 3-D experiences, commissioning gigantic IMAX screens, and in the case of theaters like the Muvico Rosemont 18, offering an upscale eatery and 21-and-up-only screens, even for flicks like “New Moon,” for adults who can’t stand the shrieking sounds of teen girls.

The recently opened Gold Class Cinema, the second in the Chicago area but only the fourth in the U.S. (it was established in Australia 13 years ago), blows everything out of the water. This is pretty much the nicest moviegoing experience you’re going to find, at least for now. And it’s going to cost you. A lot. Tickets are $25 for any show time online, be it a weekday matinee or a primetime Saturday screening. Not exactly recession friendly. (While True/Slant generously pays for these here words, it’s not really enough to pay for a group of four. Fortunately, we benefited from free admission coupons available on the theater’s Web site. Unfortunately, the coupon page has been removed).

Nevertheless, for those craving the premium, this is your place.  After checking in at the front desk (making a reservation ahead of time is advised), you’re asked to give a credit card, where they’ll charge your tickets and any food or drinks you wish to consume while watching the film. (Consider this the Morton’s to The Brew and View’s Billy Goat). If you’re there early, you’re personally escorted to take a seat in the lounge, a cozy chic waiting area more reflective of the W than Kerasotes. Once showtime comes, you’re personally escorted again into your auditorium and your seat – a massive, plush, red lounge chair that reclines gradually at the push of the button. There’s also a small table to place your fare, a secret compartment in the arm rest to store your purse and menus, and a call button that will send wait staff to your seat to take your request.

The seating accommodations and extremely attentive service were the best part of my experience, and on that basis alone, I’d recommend Gold Class Cinemas for anyone celebrating a special occasion or seeking to impress a date.  I’d nitpick that $20 would be a more appropriate price, essentially twice the price of a typical weekend night movie ticket, especially since all food and drink charges are extra.

The food I tried, while certainly several levels above standard theater food, wasn’t consistent high-end restaurant quality.  Bella’s Birthday Cake, named after the “New Moon” character, was a fine Red Velvet that would have been so much better with cream cheese frosting (instead, it was a sour cream frosting). The house made beignets, sprinkled with sugar, were a nice theater treat when paired with a dark chocolate dipping sauce, but another sauce, described as “fruit,” was an indistinguishable mess. Most disappointing was the $6 large bag of “gourmet” popcorn, which was the same variety you’d get anywhere. The only other interesting flavors described were Rocky Road, Tuxedo and Caramel – white cheddar or some other savory option would be welcome. The Wagyu Beef Burger Duo, Duck Tacos, and Crisp Maine Lobster Rolls sure sound appealing – but they’re pricey, going for $17, $15, and $18, respectively.

Because the seats are so large – there were just four in our row, essentially split into two sets of two – the auditoriums only seat tens of people, creating a sense of exclusivity, sort of like watching a movie in the living room, except the screen is bigger than any TV and the sound is way better too. This probably wouldn’t be the best place to for that crowd-pleasing, moviegoing experience. It might also not be the best place to see a movie you’re dying to see, as the wait staff, while stealth like, still distract.

So is all of this still worth the cost, and if you’re a city dweller, the drive. If you’re a die-hard movie theatergoer, absolutely, at least once. Whether your experience warrants return visits depends on the size of your bank account.

Grade: B+

Read more about Gold Class Cinemas from this Moving Pictures Q&A with CEO Kirk Senior.