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Mar. 16 2010 - 2:33 pm | 63 views | 0 recommendations | 2 comments

Yemen blew my mind

The old city of Sanaa

Some of the old quarter's so-called mud skyscrapers date back 2,000 years. (Image via Wikipedia)

Sorry for my absence around here. I just got back from a week in the heartbreaking city of Sanaa, the current capital of the fragile Republic of Yemen.

During my short visit, I feel like I saw as many hawks as pigeons, and as many fighter jets as hawks. And there were guns and daggers everywhere.

I’ll be back in full effect in the coming days. Thanks for your patience.


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  1. collapse expand

    How is Yemen? Is the proxy war still waging? Why do you describe Sanaa as heartbreaking? Did you fear for your safety? As I understand it, you are relatively free within the compounds in Saudi Arabia. Is there a marked difference in Yemen?

    • collapse expand

      Dear Craig,

      Yemen is amazing. The proxy war is no longer raging, it’s now allegedly a more targeted effort to rout AQAP up north, and a trembling peace with the south, which yearns for independence. Sanaa is heartbreaking because it is so poor and so beautiful. I did not fear for my safety, but I am stupid. As for compounds on Yemen, I was more aware of foreigners who stay in fancy hotels or in refurbished parts of the old city. I’m not sure, actually, if there are Saudi-style compounds in Yemen. If there are, there are few — no money to justify rich foreigners living in Yemen, except as diplomats, journalists or aid workers, few of which command the kind of packages oil, finance and construction executives get in Riyadh.

      Thanks for your excellent questions!
      Nathan

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    About Me

    Since graduating from Deep Springs College, I've written and edited for magazines (Rolling Stone, The Atlantic Monthly), newspapers (The Village Voice, The National), and websites (NPR.org, SixBillion.org). In the summer of 2007, I packed a bag and walked from New York to New Orleans, a trek that took five months, three pairs of shoes, and a couple thousand miles. These days, I live in Saudi Arabia with my wife, Kelly McEvers, who covers the region for National Public Radio.

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    Contributor Since: August 2009
    Location:Riyadh, Saudi Arabia

    What I'm Up To

    The Review

    I’m a regular contributor to The Review, which Reihan Salam calls a “younger, radder” New York Review of Books.

    Past pieces include:
    -”Down in the floods,” something in Saudi Arabia may have changed
    -”Checkpoint Qatif,”among Saudi’s Shiite minority
    -”Excursion into the desert,” in which my landlord pulls a gun.
    -”You’ll never walk alone,” a night of soccer in sweltering Riyadh.
    -”Get on the bus,” a story of public transport in Riyadh.
    -”Saudi Arabia’s got talent,” from the nation’s first-ever open TV auditions