The Gyro Low Down

I’m sure I wasn’t the only one who could have murdered a gyro for breakfast this morning. As David Segal, in The New York Times, demystified those ubiquitous cylinders of meat-like substance we know we should keep a safe distance from yet always submit to in times of weakness, my heart-healthy oatmeal seemed inordinately inadequate. Since my epic trans Atlantic move, three NYC phenomena have intrigued me no end. 1. The breakfast carts that appear on every street corner at dawn and disappear come lunchtime. 2. The extraordinary effect that my British accent has. 3. The provenance of the famous – or infamous depending on your inclination – Kronos gyro.

Before we go on, let’s be clear that we are all on the same page. Gyros, pronounce “yee-ros,” means “spin” in Greek  - an allusion to the rotating spit that the meat cooks on.  It is distinct from shawarma, donner kebab and al pastor despite what appearances might suggest. The gyro is made from ground lamb and beef which is then combined with spices and sometimes breadcrumbs,   then molded into a cylinder around a spit and chilled until set. Once cooked, crispy, wafer thin slices of gyro are carved off and served in pita bread with onion, tomato, yoghurt or a mysterious “white sauce.” The Lebanese shawarma, on the other hand, is made from distinct layers of marinated chicken or lamb. Al pastor evolved from the shawarma in Mexico City which had been brought over by Lebanese immigrants. Made from layers of spicy, chili marinated pork cooked on a spit called a “trompo”, the al pastor is most commonly served in tacos. Finally we come to the donner kebab, especially prevalent in Europe. It is probably the closest relative to the gyro, differing only in the mix of spices that is used in its creation.

Now back to Segal. With the recent barrage of food films and books demonizing the fast food industry – a merciless machine, driven to maximizing profits at the expense of all else – there was something comforting about seeing the laughing, chubby faced Chris Tomaras, a picture of benevolence and the man without whom there would be no Kronos.  Still, Segal is careful not to romanticize the drunk man’s ultimate meal too much. After all, I’ve never managed to achieve that curious dusty pink hue and smooth consistency no matter how much I process my meat in the grinder.

The process starts with boxes of raw beef and lamb trimmings, and ends with what looks like oversized Popsicles the shade of a Band-Aid. In between, the meat is run through a four-ton grinder, where bread crumbs, water, oregano and other seasonings are added. A clumpy paste emerges and is squeezed into a machine that checks for metal and bone. (“You can never be too careful,” Mr. Tomaras said.) Hydraulic pressure — 60 pounds per square inch — is used to fuse the meat into cylinders, which are stacked on trays and then rolled into a flash freezer, where the temperature is 20 degrees below zero.

The History of the Gyro, With a Dollop of Serendipity – NYTimes.com.

No doubt, Segal offers a scrupulously well researched  low down on how the gyros progressed from a house-made Greek speciality in family run eateries to a model of mass production. But what of the artisan gyro of today? Does that even exist anymore? After a day on the phone to Greek eateries around the US, I can assure you, that the homemade gyro is indeed a tradition not lost to the world.  Here’s a “best of” list….Please let me know if you have any others to add!

1. The Parthenon: 314 S. Halsted St. Chicago IL 60661 Tel. 312 726 2407         Owner Chris Liakouras told me that the gyros are usually made every other day and they need a “day” to set in the fridge otherwise they fall apart when sliced. They usually go through 3-5 cylinders of gyros a day.  

2. Best Gyros: 6629 Mayfield Road, Mayfield Hts, Cleveland, OH Tel. 440 461 10        The name says it all. The manager said that they have the gyros made specially for them according to their own closely guarded recipe.  

3. Greek Deli : 1120 19th Street NW, Washington, DC 20036, tEL: 202 296 2111          The line goes out the door at this hidden gem in downtown Washington. And it’s no surprise considering owner Kostas Fostieris turns up for work at 3am to make all the Greek specialities from scratch – yes including the gyros.

4. Plaka: 769 Dodecanese Blvd, Tarpon Springs, FL Tel: 727 934 4752              Tarpon Spring’s substantial Greek community is a tough crowd to please. And clearly factory made gyros just ain’t going to cut it. ”Our Gyro is considered to be the best by people from all around the world, because we continue to make our own. The lengthy process proves to be worth the effort,” they say.

5. Golden Fleece: 525 Monroe St, Detroit, MI 48226-2932, Tel: 313 962 7093 If the name isn’t enough of an incentive to go to this authentic Greek joint, then the rave reviews about their delicious homemade gyros should be.

6. Fontana Famous Pizza & Gyro :  200-02 Northern Blvd, Bayside, NY,  Tel: 718 631 0147                                                                                                                                       Even if the server at this famous Flushing joint repeatedly hung up on me thinking I wanted to sell him advertising space I’m not going to hold it against them. The best gyros in NYC, some say.