Making Casellula’s Stellar Chicken Liver Pate
It wasn’t until a few years ago that I actually started liking and eating chicken liver. Growing up in a Jewish family, it was always around, but never something I’d go for. But, as I got older and my palate has matured (I was a painfully picky eater when I was younger), a good chicken liver spread instantly warms my soul. A few months back, I ordered up the chicken liver pate at the underrated and fantastic Casellula Cheese and Wine Cafe in New York City, and I knew I had to find out how they did it. Creamy yet tangy, rich but not overwhelming … it was a livery epiphany. No truffles or anything to make it fancy, just a great pate with great accoutrements: Grilled bread, seasonal marmalade and a thin film of creme fraiche on top.
With the wondrous generosity of Casellula owner Brian Keyser and chef Megan Johnson, I was able to get into their how-the-hell-do-they-run-a-restaurant-out-of-here small subterranean kitchen to find out what goes into the pate that has had me salivating ever since. Video and photos (* Apologies for the poor audio/video… had some serious technical difficulties, not to mention a huge vent fan and a roaring convection oven in a tiny kitchen to overcome) of my visit are below and after the jump for your enjoyment*:
Casellula on 52nd St. Terrific, friendly vibe and great chow/wine. Go here soon.
Searing livers (which is going to be my band name should I ever learn to play an instrument)
As with all cooking, season everything well. Chef Megan is seen here giving the liver a salt and pepper shower.
Shallots and garlic get a quick sautee. Little could go wrong here.
The rhubarb compote cooks away. With the chicken liver, to paraphrase Chef Megan, it will become the most savory peanut butter and jelly sandwich ever.
A huge thanks goes out to the tremendously friendly, generous and welcoming Casellula chefs: Megan Johnson (left) and Leigh Friend
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Why would I want to eat a body part that is a filter for toxins? I’m sorry, this sounds good, just with a different meat.
So no foie gras for you, either, I suppose?
In response to another comment. See in context »(http://www.nofoiegras.org/)
Hopefully most have stopped eating foie gras!
In response to another comment. See in context »Haven’t tried it yet. I will give it a try eventually, but it just makes me nervous.
As long as it’s decently sourced, you’re fine. Just don’t go getting liver tacos on the side of the road in Mexico (although they’d likely be amazing)
In response to another comment. See in context »